1″ NPS Locknut Fused with 2″ Ferrule – Custom Part

Hello All,

I’ll have a more elaborate blog later this week with some closeups on the RIMS tube (aka TTHL: tube that heats liquid).

:o )

Today I added a custom part to Smart Brewer for users who want to build their own custom heating tubes. This is a hard to find part (as in non existent on the web).

This little doo-dad lets you add an end piece to your RIMS tube.  The NPS threading is specific to standard US water heater elements.

Note: “NPS” threadings should not be confused with “NPT” threadings that are common to 1/2″ brewing thermometers and the threading on the standard March 809 pump.

-Andy

 

Here’s the link to buy one:

http://www.smartbrewer.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=44&product_id=67

 

And here some pictures (click images to enlarge):

 

 

New THHL (RIMS) Tubes on Brew System :o)

Hello All,

So I completed my RIMS tubes for the Smart Brewer Brew System!!!  A RIMS tube is a “RECIRCULATING INFUSION MASH SYSTEM”.  The name is a complete stretch to make an acronym sound cool but this is what everyone calls them in the brewing world. I’ve basically created two tube that heats liquid so I think I’ll go with a better acronym: THHL (TUBE THAT HEATS LIQUID).  Makes more sense.

Anyway,  on one end is a thermometer probe and on the other end is a hot water heating element.  The advantage is that you can control your temperature and recirculate your mash or sparge tank easily.  In an ideal environment you dial in the temperature and walk away because your Sparge (also called Hot Liquor Tank or HLT) and Mash are controlled by your system.

So, here’s what I have (click image to enlarge).  The THHL tubes are parallel to the ground (I also made some stainless vertical tubes today as well.

 

 

The THHL’s also have an inlet and an outlet and are terminated by a hot water heating element (left) and a thermowell on the right.  A thermowell is basically a stainless tube about 1/2 inch in diameter that is terminated on one end.  This is where you would add your temperature probe.

All I have now is the control box!!!

-Andy

Control Box Layout

Someone once said “Proper Prior Planning Prevents Poor Performance”.

I think it should be revised to “Proper Prior Planning Prevents BAD BEER”.

Anyway,  building a control box for a brew system takes a little foresight.  Here’s what I have so far:

 

 

 

Here’s what’s hooked up to the box:

- PUMP 1 (3 way switch, green indicator light)
- PUMP 2 (3 way switch, green indicator light)
- HEAT 1 (red indicator light)
- HEAT 2 (red indicator light)
- TEMP CONTROLLER 1 (no switch)
- TEMP CONTROLLER 2 (no switch)

 

 

And here’s what everything does:
PUMP 1 (3 WAY CONTROL).
When “PUMP 1″ is in AUTO mode this engages “TEMP CONTROLLER 1″ WITH “HEAT 1″ AND “PUMP 1″.  (The temp controller turns both the pump and the heat on/off depending on the temp)
When “PUMP 1″ is in OFF mode this only engages “TEMP CONTROLLER 1″(no “HEAT 1″ and no “PUMP 1″)
When “PUMP 1″ is in MANUAL mode this only engages the “TEMP CONTROLLER 1″ with “PUMP 1″ (no heat)

PUMP 2 (3 WAY CONTROL)
When “PUMP 2″ is in AUTO mode this engages “TEMP CONTROLLER 2″ WITH “HEAT 2″ AND “PUMP 2″.  (The temp controller turns both the pump and the heat on/off depending on the temp)
When “PUMP 2″ is in OFF mode this only engages “TEMP CONTROLLER 1″  (no “HEAT 2″ and no “PUMP 2″)
When “PUMP 2″ is in MANUAL mode this only engages the “TEMP CONTROLLER 2″ with “PUMP 2″ (no heat)

PUMP 1 (GREEN INDICATOR LIGHT): Illuminates ONLY when Pump 2 is running

PUMP 2 GREEN INDICATOR LIGHT: Illuminates ONLY when Pump 2 is running

HEAT 1 (RED INDICATOR LIGHT): Illuminates when Heat is on

PUMP 2 (RED INDICATOR LIGHT):Illuminates when Heat is on

ON/OFF: Turns everything off

TEMP CONTROLLER 1: This controller receives power from the PUMP 1 3-way control, it either gets power for both the pump and heat or just itself.

TEMP CONTROLLER 2: This controller receives power from the PUMP 1 3-way control, it either gets power for both the pump and heat or just itself.

ON/OFF:
Turns EVERYTHING off.

Mounted the Control Box to the Brew System

I purchased a stainless steel box off Ebay for $100.  It’s about 18″ tall 6″ deep and 12″ wide. This was a great buy considering waterproof boxes like these sell for $600+ out of catalogs like Grainger.

Anyway, rather than tack weld the box onto the frame I opted to mount it with stainless bolts and nuts so I could remove it down the road if I choose. EASIER SAID THEN DONE!!

I spent a SOLID hour drilling the holes for the box.  I also spent about an hour remounting the three bottom beams (beams without the pumps) to the structure so all the beams are now symmetrical (OCD much?).

Note to self: stainless steel is VERY hard to drill through.

Hopefully mounting the temp controllers will be easier. I’ll go over the control box functions later this week.

-Andy

(click to see larger image):